Roux is a base of equal parts flour & fat cooked down and used to thicken sauces, soups, and my favorites creole dishes - gumbo and étouffée.
So if roux is just simply flour and fat, why does it cause even an experienced home cook so much anguish? From complaints that it takes too long to burning it to not knowing which one to use or even realizing that there are different types for different dishes, people seem to HATE making roux. I challenge you to keep reading as I demystify a key ingredient in cooking the Gourmet Mommie way!
Step #1: Roux - What it is and is Not
The word roux is actually a French word that means "red" and is traditionally a mix of starch (flour) and fat (vegetable oil or butter) that is used to give body to sauces, soups and the like. Because I tend to cook a lot of creole and creole-inspired dishes, I make a lot of roux and have had to learn the ins and outs of all the different types.
A logical question is - what is the difference between a roux and a slurry? Simple answer? Heat, timing and fat. A slurry is usually made from cornstarch or flour and water or stock. It is also usually made room temperature from the juices of a dish that are removed from what you are making. It is then mixed with the starch and added back to the original dish.
Roux on the other hand is cooked prior to starting the dish, it serves as the base and is cooked to a specific coloration rather than adding it at the end. Both will thicken your sauce but while slurries only thicken, the type of roux prepared has the ability to change the entire flavor profile of a dish. The key thing to note here, is that roux and slurries ARE NOT interchangeable.
Step #2 - All Rouxs are Not Created Equal
Demystifying roux starts with understanding the ingredients and how varying how long you cook it affects the flavor of your dish. First - the easy ingredient - flour. Roux will ALWAYS be made from flour. You can change the type of flour you use if you have dietary restrictions, but I cannot guarantee that it will cook the same way or taste the same way that traditional All-Purpose flour will. (That might be an experiment we try at some point - let me know in the comments if this is something you'd be interested in).
The second ingredient is a bit more complicated - the fat. Rouxs can be made with virtually any fat you choose, BUT traditionally in creole dishes it is either vegetable oil or butter. It is also important to know that if you plan to go for a darker roux, butter is not the best option because the smoke point for butter (when it will burn) is lower than oils.
Lastly, it is essential to understand that there are different types of roux - in my family we have three - Blonde, Caramel/Peanut Butter and Dark. The only difference between these types is the length of time that you cook them. The longer you cook the roux the browner it becomes. Cooking flour in fat will always add flavor and texture but the darkening from blonde roux to dark roux comes from toasting the starch and will have a much stronger flavor than the lighter colors.
Step #3 - What to Use When
Now that you understand the difference, let's talk about how to know when to use what type of roux. The simplest and most convenient way to absorb this detail is a table...sorry it's the engineer in me, I like to have pictorial and concise displays of information that I can reference in future ;-). (Hint - my go to fat for each type is listed first)
The two biggest influences on the flavor of your roux will be the type of fat you use and how long you cook it. If you are looking for a richer more buttery flavor then use butter. If you are looking for depth of flavor with a more toasty profile, use oil so that you can get to a dark roux. There's no right or wrong to which fat you use; it just depends on what flavor you want. Same goes for timing, the longer you cook the roux, the more toasted the flour becomes and the deeper the flavor.
Step #4 - The Secret Ingredient
Now that you understand the anatomy of roux, it's time to reveal the secret ingredient to making a perfect roux. Drum roll please.....PATIENCE!
"The difference between an amateur and a professional chef isn’t always a matter of skill or knowledge...it’s... technique...and that they have withstood the pain of the process." – Chef Kwame Onwuachi
What's the famous quote? All good things come to those who wait? In this case, that is completely true. Roux takes a lot of patience, especially if you are going for a dark roux. To perfect roux making you need a good heavy bottom skillet or pot and a strong arm. Roux is cooked over a medium-low heat with constant stirring to prevent burning. The goal is to toast the flour slowly to add more color. If you crank up the heat too high, it will brown too quickly and most likely burn. It is also important to note that because this is fat, it takes time to cool so the cooking process will continue even after the heat is turned off. This means that if you heat it high too fast, you can still burn it from the residual heat and the mixture not cooling fast enough. Nothing can ruin a dish faster than burnt roux. It will permeate the entire flavor not to mention smell like burnt food that will take over your entire kitchen.
An alternative to the stove method and all that stirring is the oven method. This takes more time and you have to be vigilant about checking it and stirring periodically, but can be a great solution for those who don't want to or can't stand over a stove for the hour it can take to make dark roux.
Roux is a River We Must All Learn to Cross
I learned to make roux in my Dear's (paternal grandmother) kitchen. She would sit at the table in that back kitchen giving instructions and always warning me not to let the roux burn and to keep stirring! It took me an additional 10 years to perfect my gumbo but it all started with the basics: perfecting making roux. Your gumbo will only be as good as your roux, all the rest is honestly just preference. In the end, if you think through what type of flavor you want (using the table above as a guide) and take your time, you'll be making perfect roux in no time! So come on in, the water is fine cause it's filled with more flavor than you can handle!
If you want to see a video on how to make roux, visit me on Instagram @gourmetmommie.
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